longrandom.blogg.se - Amiga mac classic emulator

Amiga mac classic emulator series#

Emulation has been a successful way to achieve this and thanks to years of development Amiga community is lucky enough to have a really well built emulation in form of UAE (universal amiga emulation), this basic layer has formed to be the frame work for many different type of emulations, this page will look at the most popular ones. ↳ ST 16MHz V1.Like most famous systems, when people move on to other platform or don't have access to the original hardware, but they still want to get there Amiga fix, or might like to have access to Amiga vast library on another platform.↳ ST V1 16MHz BOOSTER (Discontinued 2015).

Amiga mac classic emulator series#

↳ ST 16MHz V2.X SERIES BOOSTERS (Discontinued 2020).

I'm grateful so far for everybodys suggestions over on my Stuff and Things thread, but I thought it time it had a thread of it's own.Īny help and suggestions gratefully received as these things are new to me. I can adjust this, so will do so under load to see if it makes a difference, but I am also going to replace the PSU optocoupler as a thread on 68kmla suggested it's common for them to fail. I still get the checkerboard display, and with the logic board connected, the voltage is dropping from 5v to 4.7v, which is below the threshold for the machine to run from what I've been told. The current situation is that I am working to replace the ROM (Possibly with one of ROM emulators. Although the analog board caps did leak, it wasn't much and was restricted to around the capacitor bases. Luckily the battery didn't leak, and if the logic board caps did leak it wasn't much at all.

I have checked very close up with a microscope. I mistakenly plugged into pin 1 and it got rather warm.Ĭlassic.jpg (449.03 KiB) Viewed 2806 timesĪnd you can see that there appears to be no corrosion visible around any of the chips. It has a 42 pin socket, and for 40 pin ROMs should be plugged in starting at pin 2. Replaced the leaking PSU capacitors on the analog board.Ĥ. Cleaned the area around the caps with IPA and thoroughly washed the mainboard in soapy water and dried for 48 Hours.ģ. (Note the picture of the mobo shows C5 and C9 missing, these were taken out to troubleshoot a non-existent short.Ģ. Removed the 7 capacitors that are known to leak on the logic board, and replaced with tantalum equivalents. Removing the RAM daughterboard gives a different pattern on screen of close horizontal bars.Īside from joining 68kmla and watching the entire Mac Repair-a-thon series on Adrians Digital Basement, here's what I have done up to now:ġ. It also has a wobble/ripple to it, but that does seem to stabilise after warming up a bit. The symptom is that when the machine is powered on, I get a checkerboard pattern on screen.

Since its a retro machine and 68K based, I thought that I would pull it out of my more general blog and into one all of it's own, for hopefully better coverage and assistance. Up until around 6 months ago, it was running ok, but I recently powered on and it's not so well any more. The other machine I've owned for quite a while is a Mac Classic. A couple of Macbooks (G3 & G4), a couple of Performas (I still have one and it runs just fine) and a 17" Powerbook G4, which I bought for £40 as spares or repairs, and had it fixed and running OSX within a day of it arriving. I've been the owner of several Macs over the years.